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[dlb21964]

Hello, I'm new to the forum. Hoping someone can verify what I'm trying to accomplish with my new PID setup.

I'm building a Cerakote oven from a repurposed Heating cabinet. Its 1900 watts, with an internal cabinet that houses the element and also a fan. It has a thermocouple wired to a rotary step knob to turn off and turn on the element from 90 to 200 degrees. Its a single switch that turns everything on/off.

I'm going to rewire the element to use the PID, since I need the oven to stay around 250 degrees.I'm chucking the on/off swith and rotary knob.

I have the PID, the 40A SSR, the temp probe, a 2 pole contactor and a terminal block kit, along with a latching on/off button.  I know how to wire up the element to the SSR and PID, but I'm a little unsure on how to wire the fan into the whole circuit.  I'm assuming I need to come off a terminal block with a hot wire so that the fan stays on 100% of the time?  Would it make more sense to use a seperate on/off button for the fan?

Any guidance would be appreciated!

[Kkane]

Assuming you are using 120V for your 1900W element (about 16A). Please make sure that you are using 20A circuit/subpanel.

If you want to use the fan separately (manually control), you can jump a hot wire and neutral from from your terminal blocks and connect them to your fan. For easy operation, you can wire a switch in serial to that circuit, so you can manually turn on/off the fan. Or the simplest way is, you can just power up your fan separately from this control box/panel. You can use a separate power outlet to drive this fan.

Another thought is, you can also use the controller's alarm output to drive that fan. For example, when the temperature is over 150 degree, fan will be turned on as high temperature alarm.

[dlb21964]

Kkane...thanks so much for the reply!

Yes, it came set up from the factory running 1900 W at 120 volts.

I went ahead and ordered another latching switch from Auber yesterday just so I have the option of running the fan by itself if I want.

Even though I'm fairly confident on the hookup, do you know of a diagram anywhere I can follow that shows the contactor, switches, and PID wiring, or is the one linked below what I'm looking for?


https://www.auberins.com/images/Manual/2352-contactor.pdf

[Kkane]

Your attached file is fine. The controller in that file is SYL-2352. If you have a different model, you need to revise it accordingly.

[dlb21964]

Your attached file is fine. The controller in that file is SYL-2352. If you have a different model, you need to revise it accordingly.

I'm using the 2362, and I'd like to use an indicator light with the on/off breaker.


Where or how does the LED indicator light get wired into the schematic?

[Kkane]

Here are several ways. You can wire that LED indicator in parallel to the coil of the contactor. So when you turn on the contactor, that indicator will be ON.

Another way is, you can wire that LED indicator in parallel to the output of the contactor. So when SSR is triggered, your heater will be ON and your LED indicator will be ON. But please note SSR has leakage current. So even your SSR is OFF, your LED indicator could still be dimmed (not fully ON).

[dlb21964]

Here are several ways. You can wire that LED indicator in parallel to the coil of the contactor. So when you turn on the contactor, that indicator will be ON.

Another way is, you can wire that LED indicator in parallel to the output of the contactor. So when SSR is triggered, your heater will be ON and your LED indicator will be ON. But please note SSR has leakage current. So even your SSR is OFF, your LED indicator could still be dimmed (not fully ON).

Thanks again for the info.

I have 2 push button switches I plan on using, but I'm unsure of which terminals on the contactor I would need to use since I'd like to use one for the fan and one for the element.

I drew a rather crude diagram of how I interpret the layout...if you or anyone else can take a look at it and give me an opinion I'd be very grateful.

[Kkane]

Please see the attached file. Some comments:

1. The PID terminals are wrong. The pin assignment for 2352 and 2362 are different. I revised the pin assignment in the diagram.

2. By your design, you need to use double pole switch for both heater switch and fan switch. It is not necessary. You can use single pole switch, and you can only cut one hot wire. You don't have to cut both hot and neutral at same time for 120V power. You can connect neutral wire to your fan and contactor's coil all the time.

3. Assuming the bottom middle block is your fan.

[dlb21964]

Yes that is correct, I'm using a toggle breaker for the element, and a toggle breaker for the fan.

Both are single pole. Is that acceptable?

[Kkane]

Then you need to change your wiring. Your original wiring requires a double pole switch (4 terminals), so it can cut both hot and neutral at same time. Single pole switch only has 2 terminals, and it can only cut one wire at one time.

[dlb21964]

Then you need to change your wiring. Your original wiring requires a double pole switch (4 terminals), so it can cut both hot and neutral at same time. Single pole switch only has 2 terminals, and it can only cut one wire at one time.

Hopefully this is it?

[Kkane]

No.

1. You need to connect neutral wire to C1 terminal on the contactor. The coil terminals need to be connected.

2. Do you add two indicators/lights to this circuit? The red block part is added to this wiring.

3. The blue block part wiring looks incorrect. Heater switch (to control the hot to the contactor coil) should be connected to hot/terminal block directly. Similarly, one side of fan is connected to neutral all the time. Other side of fan is connected to the fan switch, then to the hot/terminal block directly. Heater switch and fan switch must be running in parallel, not in serial. Also, the terminal block in the blue box isn't connected to the neutral.

[dlb21964]

No.

1. You need to connect neutral wire to C1 terminal on the contactor. The coil terminals need to be connected.

2. Do you add two indicators/lights to this circuit? The red block part is added to this wiring.

3. The blue block part wiring looks incorrect. Heater switch (to control the hot to the contactor coil) should be connected to hot/terminal block directly. Similarly, one side of fan is connected to neutral all the time. Other side of fan is connected to the fan switch, then to the hot/terminal block directly. Heater switch and fan switch must be running in parallel, not in serial. Also, the terminal block in the blue box isn't connected to the neutral.

OK...first off, I appreciate ALL your help!

I did add 2 LED indicator lights to the circuit to show when switches are on.
Secondly, I dl'ed a decent drawing app, and have redid everything to hopefully help make it easier to see. I went thru and fixed what I understand. I'm still a bit unsure of the fan, LED and element switch wiring.

[Kkane]

This one looks good.

Don't forget to connect the power to the PID controller. Also please be careful for the polarity, when you connect controller's SSR output to your SSR input.

[dlb21964]

This one looks good.

Don't forget to connect the power to the PID controller. Also please be careful for the polarity, when you connect controller's SSR output to your SSR input.

Cleaned up, removed LEDs, and connect L/N for PID

Still look good?